Bonjour mes amis,

Les Compagnies Franches de Fort Toulouse is dedicated to the recreation and re-enactment of the everyday life of the garrison of Fort Toulouse in the early 1750s period. We concentrate on researching and recreating the lifestyle of the French Marines, their families and their habitats for personal enjoyment and public education.

Above all else, we strive to present an animation of the highest quality. It is not enough that we have a basic knowledge of Fort Toulouse and its garrison. We must thoroughly understand the greater scope of history of which our roles are so small a part. This must be combined with emotional and intellectual feel for the individuals we portray. We must have a complete understanding of the individual as a person. We must be familiar with his activities, both on and off duty, as well as what he thought of his superiors, his peers and those beneath him in rank. We must also understand his views of the world around him.

All this knowledge and understanding must be combined with a desire to pass on this information to the public. If the visitor leaves Fort Toulouse with some feel for what life was like at an 18th century French colonial fort we will have been successful. This success depends largely on the dedication and individual commitment we bring to our roles.

The following specifications are the result of a great deal of research, discussion and analysis. As with anything of this nature, we must remain open to new evidence and be prepared to evaluate it and, if valid, include it in our interpretation.

MILITARY PORTRAYAL

Note: All Marines start at as a Soldat/Recrue (Soldier Recruit), but at any point after the 6-month probationary period and after they have been voted in as a regular member, they may be promoted to Fusilier Marin (Marine Fusilier), in accordance with current standing orders on promotion. The book, Fort Toulouse, The French Outpost at the Alabamas on the Coosa by Daniel H. Thomas, is required reading for the Fusilier's test.

The Compagnie is always to be well-disciplined and follow the orders of its superiors and field commanders when drilling, on the battlefield, and during woods tacticals. Its members work in teams and the whole of the Compagnie fights and drills intact unless the situation or orders warrant a different tactic. As such the members of the Compagnies Franches De La Marine are required to maintain a certain look of uniformity that maintains our identity on the field. While Marines are required to have a full uniform, it is up to the discretion of the officer in charge as to whether the full uniform (justaucorps if one has it, stock, tricorn, sword belt, waistcoat, shirt, breeches, gaiters, and buckle shoes) is to be worn, or whether the Marines may dress in the small clothes (waistcoat, shirt, breeches, gaiters, leggins, or stockings, shoes or mocs, fatigue cap or tricorn), or may dress in appropriate clothing for off-duty or woods battles.

New members have one year to acquire all required items of dress and equipment (two years for the gun). During this time, the new recruits are to observe the other members in the manner of dress and ask questions and/or ask for help from their sponsor so that they be properly attired as soon as possible. If in doubt, please ask. Also, before making large purchases, please consult your sponsor and/or a senior officer.

The Marine in New France was a part of the regular French service. The soldiers were rotated from France on an approximately yearly schedule. Uniforms were issued annually to the company commander, who withheld the money from the soldier's pay to cover the cost of the uniforms. One year the marine might receive "le grand habillement" and the next "le petite habillement." The basic working uniform would be the "small clothes," especially in this area. The justaucorps was expected to be worn at drill or guard duty if possessed by the marine. A breakdown on the uniforms and accoutrements follows.

In addition to the clothing and equipment listed below, you'll definitely need a period cup, eating utensils, and a plate and/or a bowl. Also a good idea are an oil lamp, a period bottle, and one or two solid-color wool blankets (blue, white, black, or red are best). These items aren't required, but are recommended, and can all be acquired over the course of the first year or two of participation.

Once enlisted, recruits of the Troupes de la Marine were forwarded to the Isle of Re, near Rochefort, France, until they boarded the ships bound for the colony to which they were destined. For the voyage the recruit was issued a frock (with 18 brass buttons), a pair of breeches, a pair of shoes, stockings, a shirt, a wool cap, a comb, a woolen blanket, and a sailors' hammock. (Taken from "Louisiana Recruits 1752-1758" by Winston DeVille.) Their other clothing/gear was issued upon arrival at their colony of destination.

Fabric for breeches, waistcoat, and justacorp: Melanie, one of the seamstresses at Fort Toulouse, who has made many of the men's uniforms over the years, offers these notes: "I use wool from Dorr Mills: 1-800-846-DORR or 603-863-1197. The white wool is color #100, and the blue is either 6372 for the 'marine blue' that I used, or 6385 for a medium navy blue, or 6307 for the dark navy. There is some debate over which is 'correct,' but since it was almost impossible to duplicate the exact shade of blue from dye lot to dye lot, and because they would have faded over time, I believe it is okay to take your pick. I used the lighter color, because I thought it was 'right' at the time, but now I'm not so sure. I'm not sure anyone is absolutely positive they know the answer to that one. Dorr Mill will send you swatches if you call and ask."

La Chemise (Shirt):They were large, loose and generally one size, usually constructed of linen, hemp, or cotton (cotton wads more common by 1756). The color is white. Narrow cuffs with the back longer than the front. No ruffles or lace on the common shirt. Two hearts in front at the bottom of the neck opening. The collar is short and will be covered by the stock. Buttons to be bone or shell. The shirt is required for the first 3 events.

La Cullote (Breeches): Royal blue wool cut en brayette, the French fly. Two flap closure pockets with small buttons, two medium buttons closing the waistband and two small buttons closing the fly panel. Each leg closed with five small buttons. Leg splits should close with brass buckle or leather tie. Fit is high waisted, loose in the seat and snug in the thigh. The material should be cut on the bias (diagonal) to allow some stretch. All buttons are brass.The breeches are required for the first 3 events. Rocking Horse Farm has a good pattern for French fly breeches: http://www.rockinghorse-farm.com/.

Les Bas (Stockings): Generally speaking these were blue woolen worsted. After 1722 the stockings were apparently not knitted but sewn of cut cloth leaving a seam up the back. Before 1750 it was common to pull the tops of the stockings over the breeches and garter them below the knee. The Marine in Plate 2 shows this style. Our stockings should be of blue or grey wool. Normally we will wear the tops under the breeches.

Le Veste (Waistcoat): The French waistcoat was always sleeved, making it a very useful garment. The Marine waistcoat of the period was relatively long, about eight inches shorter than the justaucorps. Sleeves had a plain slashed cuff which closed with two buttons. The waistcoat is of royal blue wool with buttons to the waist on two inch centers (depending on your height). Pocket flaps are false. Coat is lined with white linen or cotton and edges are turned under. All buttons are brass as used on the breeches. For a good pattern, go to http://www.jpryan.com/waistcoa.htm. (See Plate 1.)

La Cravate (Stock): During most of the century, French troops wore a long cravat wound around the neck over the collar of the shirt. This long piece of cloth was wound twice around the neck and looped over in front with the ends left to hang down about six inches. The cravat is 4 1/2 inches wide by 66 inches long. Late in the 1740s the cravat was often replaced with the stock. The stock is approximately seven inches long and buckled or tied at the back of the neck. Both cravat and stock were of white linen for CFDL Marines and of black linen for shipboard Marines. Ours shall be white.

Le Bonnet (Fatigue cap): Records are sketchy on this type of clothing as to whether it was issued. It appears that the soldier was to make it of fabric from his old waistcoat when issued a new one. This type of cap was universal in the French armies. It had a long bag ending in a tassel that hung to the side and a band that went completely around the cap, rising to the front to show the fleur de lys or the marine anchor. Our bonnets should be trimmed in "false gold." The bonnet was never worn with the justaucorps and was traditionally not worn when "under arms." (See Plate 1.) Pattern available from Fort Toulouse. See info on Fabric, above.

Le Guetres (Gaiters): Gaiters were generally made of white heavy canvas duck with ten to twelve black horn buttons. The top of the gaiters should come to mid-thigh and the top five button spaces should have buttonholes through both sides to allow buttoning to the five buttons on the breeches legs. (Use the same buttonhole spacing on the legs of the breeches and the gaitors so that you can button the top couple of buttons on the gaitors to the breeches leg buttons.) At the bottom should be a leather or canvas stirrup to hold the gaiter under the foot. Should be worn with shoes (not moccasins). Side-seam Indian style leggings, with about a 4-inch flap, tied under the knee, are also acceptable when worn with moccasins "on duty." Wool or deerskin is preferable when making leggings. Gaiters are shown in Plate 1; leggings are shown in Plate 5. Pattern available from Fort Toulouse.

Les Souliers (Shoes): These were buckled shoes of black leather. The buckle is of plain brass and the leather is preferably the rough side out. Center seam moccasins may be substituted for shoes. The shoes or moccasins are required for the first 3 events. Center-seam pucker toe moccasin pattern

At this time the remaining items of clothing which comprise the full uniform are considered optional, but highly desirable for our portrayal.

Le Justaucorps (Coat): The coat is made of natural white wool interfaced with royal blue wool on the skirts. The coat reaches to just above the knee and eighteen large brass buttons down the front. The cuff, which is interfaced with blue wool, comes to within two finger widths of the bend of the elbow. The three buttonholes on the cuff are functional, holding the cuff in place when rolled up. The skirts should have functional hooks and eyes for turnbacks. At the top of each side split should be sewn a large button on which the sword belt rests. For a good pattern, go to http://www.jpryan.com/details/1750.html. See Plate 2 and Plate 3.

Le Capote (Winter Coat):The capote of the early French soldier is not the same as commonly seen in the 19th century fur trade. These coats were similar to the justaucorps, of unlined wool, well-tailored, with cuffs, a hood and no fringe or capes. The front would be closed with the sword belt. Colors could be natural white, blue, or brown, and were said to have likely matched the regimental facing colors, which in our case would be blue. Blue or brown are preferable for woods maneuvers. See Plate 4 and Plate 5.

Le Chapeau (Tricorne): The French tricorn hat was made of black felt and was cocked up evenly on all three sides. The sides are held with two vertical black cords. A black bow- style cockade is on the left side. The hat is trimmed in false gold. This is the standard military hat worn when under arms. The tricorne can be worn without the justaucorps. Note: the cockade seen in Plate 3 is reserved for Marines who have been promoted to Fusilier. (See Plate 2 and Plate 3. The tricorne is required by the end of the first year.

The common marine was basically armed with a musket, a sword, a bayonet, a cartridge box and sword belt on which to append these items. Once in New France, the sword often remained in garrison and was replaced by a tomahawk or hatchet. During the late 1740s to mid-1750s, the use of the belt mounted box was replaced with the shoulder slung box. We will concentrate on the belt box primarily for our portrayal.

Le Fusil (Musket): From the 1690s to the 1740s the musket carried was predominantly the Marine model made in Tulle. During the 1740s the Ministry of Marine bought the 1728 style muskets from St. Etienne. There is conflicting information on the type of finish that was used on the weapons. As we will be going to other French posts, we will finish as noted below. For our purposes, acceptable muskets include:

• Charleville Model 1763 altered to Model 1728 (bright)
• Tulle Marine (bright)
• Fusil de Chasse (browned or blued)
• Fusil Grenadier (bright)
• Fusil Fin (browned or blued)
• Type C or D French trade fusil (bright)
• British Trade gun

Le Bayonet (Bayonet): Bayonets of the correct period are recommended but not required. Socket bayonets were used on the military muskets, while plug bayonets were used with the trade fusils which did not have bayonet lugs. Socket bayonets replaced plug bayonets in 1716.

L'Epee du Soldat (Sword): The soldier was generally issued a sword. The rigors of moving through the bush caused the sword to be replaced with the tomahawk or axe in the field. For our portrayal, swords are not required. For a person of the rank of sergeant or above, the sword is highly recommended.

Le Gargoussier (Cartridge Box): The waist mounted cartridge box was russet brown with the flap trimmed in buff leather cut in a sawtooth pattern and a buff anchor sewn on the center of the flap. The box had a wooden block which was bored for nine rounds of ammunition. The box is mounted on the sword belt on the right hip toward the front (see Plate 2, Plate 3, and Plate 6). This style was worn till 1755.

Powder Horn: A powder horn would have been issued to Marines, with its own narrow buff shoulder belt.

Misc. Equipment: In the cartridge box (or haversack or shot pouch) there should be the tools and accouterments and extra flints to maintain your musket during a battle, including a vent pick, screwdriver, and brush.

Sword Belt: The sword belt was always worn with the uniform and will be required, even if you haven't the sword nor bayonet. This belt must have the correct French buckle and may be of the early style for plug bayonet and sword or the later style with the double frog for the sword and bayonet scabbards. (See Plate 4.) The sword belt is required by the end of the first year.

Knapsack: The French knapsacks were long, about four feet, and folded in half, being tied with a thong to hold them closed. They were mounted on a wide leather strap which was slung over the right shoulder to hang in the back. They were made of heavy canvas duck. We have a pattern available should you wish to make one.

Tentage: The standard military tent is the wedge tent. The French Model 1750 measures 8"x8'6"x7' with a bell at the rear. (Fort Toulouse will provide some tents.)

Knife: The marine most commonly carried a pocket knife, though belt knives were not uncommon. Keep the knives in the proper mid-18th century style.

Note: The summer uniform is not historically accurate, but is a necessity in our summer heat. All items of the Small Clothes must be acquired before the summer uniform.

La Chemise (Shirt): They were large, loose and generally one size, of white linen or cotton. Narrow cuffs with the back longer than the front. No ruffles or lace on the common shirt. Two hearts in front at the bottom of the neck opening. The collar is short, buttons are bone or shell.

La Cullote (Breeches): Royal blue cotton or linen cut en brayette, the French fly. Two flap closure pockets with small buttons, two medium buttons closing the waistband and two small buttons closing the fly panel. Each leg closed with five small buttons. Leg splits should close with brass buckle or leather tie. Fit is high waisted, loose in the seat and snug in the thigh. The material should be cut on the bias (diagonal) to allow some stretch. All buttons are brass.

Le Veste (Waistcoat): Same as the French waistcoat, but sleeveless. Relatively long, about eight inches shorter than the justaucorps, of royal blue linen or cotton with buttons to the waist on two inch centers (depending on your height). Pocket flaps are false. Coat is lined with white linen or cotton and edges are turned under. All buttons are brass as used on the breeches.

Leggings or Stockings: Side-seam Indian style leggings are acceptable when worn with moccasins "on duty." Wool or deerskin is preferable when making leggings. Blue or grey knitted cotton stockings are also acceptable.

Les Souliers (Shoes): These were buckled shoes of black leather. The buckle is of plain brass and the leather is preferably the rough side out. Center seam moccasins may be substituted for shoes.

Le Chapeau (Tricorne): The French tricorn hat was made of black felt and was cocked up evenly on all three sides, but for summer a straw tricorn is acceptable. The sides are held with two sticks or vertical white or natural cords.

Off-duty Marines, during appropriate times, circumstances etc., can wear civilian clothing discussed below and on the next page.

Smock: Linen or cotton shirt, pull-over style, of the earlier northern smock type, approximately mid-thigh to knee length, usually white, or sometimes dyed drab (gray, brown, or tan). Caped, fringed riflemen shirts are not period and will not be permitted! Smocks were very commonly worn alone in warm weather, unbelted.

CIVILIAN PORTRAYAL

Women's dress and lifestyle in the 18th century in New France would have been less restrained than their European counterparts. Their skirts were shorter, the colors and prints were much bolder, and many times a woman on the frontier would (horrors!) let her stays show while working. The basic rule of propriety was that a virtuous woman kept her head covered out of reverence to the Lord and her elbows covered out of deference to custom and a Frenchman's lust. It mattered not that her skirts were hiked up to walk through the mud, her bodice was cut revealingly low or her ankles showed, as long as her head and elbows were covered. A list of women's clothing follows below.

Infants wore a chemise which was open at the back and held closed with straight pins or ties. The cut-out piece in the front, where the opening was cut for the head, was left attached and hanging and used as a bib. Babies wore various caps on their heads, also. Little girls and boys less than five years old wore a chemise cut like a woman's chemise, with a jacket or robe over it. These would be made of cotton, linen, or wool. Girls and boys would also wear stays, believe it or not! These were deemed necessary to give support to their young, growing bodies, and encourage proper posture. Once the child reached the age of five or so, they would begin wearing miniature versions of their parents' clothing. For good information on making garments for children, refer to Suzanne and Andre Gousse's Costume in New France From 1740 to 1760, and to Beth Gilgun's Tidings From the 18th Century. (See Suzanne Gousse with her children.)

Distaff Kit - Check out this page from the website of the 4th Coy, Bde of Guards for photos of an English woman dressing in various parts of her costume, c.1770s

Lovely photo of a middle-lower-class woman

Men's civilian clothing included a shirt or smock of linen, hemp, or cotton, usually white, with narrow cuffs, short collar, and reinforced shoulders; breeches of wool or linen, made with a button front; or a wool breechclout worn with wool or leather leggins (mitasses); a sleeved or sleeveless waistcoat or mantelet; a camisole/gilet, which can be sleeved or sleeveless, and is worn either under the shirt or over the shirt; neckerchief or fichu of black or colored silk; and a capot. They might also wear stockings or hose, and straight-last shoes, wooden shoes, or center- seam moccasins. On their head they would wear a red wool knitted tuque, a linen cap, or sometimes a beaver-felt hat.

In addition to the clothing listed, you'll definitely need a period cup, eating utensils, and a plate and/or a bowl. Also a good idea are an oil lamp, a period bottle, and one or two solid-color wool blankets (blue, white, black, or red are best). These items aren't required, but are recommended, and can all be acquired over the course of the first year or two of participation.

 French Women's Basic Outfit for Fort Toulouse in 1755:

Chemise. White or off-white, cotton or linen, 3 yards.Sleeves can be gathered into a cuff, can have a drawstring, or can be long and narrow, and must cover the elbows completely. Necklines are low, and are not gathered at the neck like an English chemise, even if the neckline is so wide that it drops off your shoulders somewhat. The neck can be trimmed with a small ruffle called a tour de gorge, which is be made from the selvage of the fabric. The chemise can be made in the French style, which is good for small or average size women, or the English style, which is better for larger or more mature figures. The chemise is required for the first 3 events.

Petticoats or jupes. Two are usually worn, depending on weather and fabric. Stick with solid colors at first. Cotton, linen, or wool, 2.5-3 yards. The petticoat should come to about mid- shin. The skirt is straight, and the waist can be drawstring or gathered onto a waistband. The petticoat is required for the first 3 events.

Apron, bib or plain. Aprons range from white to very dark colors, white being reserved for dressy occasions. French women frequently wore aprons of medium to dark colors of coarse linen or wool so they wouldn't show dirt as well. Use cotton or linen, 1.5 yards, slightly more if you want a bib. A bib is simply a piece of fabric that comes up from the skirt of the apron, and is pinned to the front of the outer garment, over the jacket. The apron usually has a drawstring top, although a bib apron may be gathered and have sewn-on ties. The apron is required by the end of the first year.

Kerchief. This is a square of fabric, anywhere from 20x20 inches to 60x60 inches, hemmed, and folded in half diagonally to make a triangle. This is worn over the shoulders and tied, pinned, or tucked in front. The point falls in the middle of the back, and the kerchief covers the shoulders. Cotton or linen, white (most common), or any other color. Again, stick with solids at first; you can make a printed, checked, or striped neckerchief for special occasions later on. The kerchief is required by the end of the first year.

Jackets/Gowns There is some debate over whether shortgowns were in use in the 1750s by the French, but the Manteau-de-Lit or bedjacket is definitely period. This is a loose garment with loose mid-length to long sleeves. The bedjacket is mid-thigh length, and rather full around the bottom. The front is closed with pins, or held shut by the apron. Fabrics are wool, linen, or cotton, lined or unlined, in a variety of colors and patterns. Bed jackets were mostly undress wear, but might have been worn on the streets by commoners. This is a good easy-to-make starter garment. You'll need 1.5 to 3 yards, depending on the design, plus the lining. For a very authentic bed jacket pattern based on the French Garsault design, go to Kannick's Korner.

I have gathered bits of info on different types of gowns and jackets, gleaned from the FandIWomen list on YahooGroups, plus pictures and pattern recommendations. Please click here for the GOWN/JACKET INFO.

Cap. These are always white or off-white, cotton or linen. There are many styles available; look for one with lappets hanging down the sides, not a "mob" cap, which is a circle with ruffles all the way around it, which have not been documented as being worn in our time period. The cap is required for the first 3 events.

Footwear. The most period thing to do is go barefoot. Shoes were very expensive and hard to come by; they would have been saved for special occasions. In winter, habitants, men and women alike, would wear wooden shoes, and/or Indian-style center-seam moccasins. There are period shoes available, but do your research first before spending $100-200 on a pair which may not be appropriate. Moccasins are easy to make, and comfortable. ( Center-seam pucker toe moccasin pattern) Wooden shoes cost about $25, and worn with your moccasins, will protect your feet from cold and rain. Footwear is required by the end of the first year.

Hose. If it's cool enough to wear shoes, you'll probably want hose or stockings. These are readily available from merchants for about $7-10 a pair, in a variety of colors, and in cotton or wool. These are not exactly what was worn in the 1750s, but without extensive research and the ability to knit your own, you're stuck with them. Stay with solid colors at first; stripes may or may not be appropriate for the 1750s. Hose are required by the end of the first year.

Corset or Bodice. Under your outer garments, on top of your chemise, you might wear pair of stays, jumps, corset, or bodice. These range from fully-boned figure-forming garments which lace up the back, to lightly boned and fitted vests. They can have sleeves which attach at the shoulders with ties. Women of middle- to high-class would almost always wear stays under their clothing to give support, and to give the proper line and fit to their fine garments. Lower-class women may not wear stays at all, especially if out working, or in hot weather. Fort Toulouse was very much a frontier fort, and the dress of the habitants was not quite up to par with that of the habitants of the cities. Women, if they wore the stays, may even wear them alone over the chemise, without putting on their jacket. Women on the frontier, working in and around their house, would be more likely to "dress down," and wear the equivalent of jeans and t-shirt. If they were going out or having company, however, they would certainly wear a jacket over their stays and chemise. There has been much said about the "farby" (inappropriate) short, sleeveless French bodice/vest, which many women wear as their outer layer in public at F-and-I events. A true bodice or stays is not a waist-length garment; it has tabs or short skirts that are hidden by the petticoats. While it may be fine to wear the stays alone at home while working, it would not be seen at a market fair!

Pockets. The petticoats did not have pockets sewn in, so women would wear one or two pockets on a string around the waist, under the petticoats. These are reached by a slit in the side of the petticoat.

Gowns. While the above garments are the basic and most simple thing to put together, French women also wore gowns. These would be more difficult to make, and would be made of much finer fabrics. A stomacher would be worn with them to cover up the stays. Sometimes a bum roll would be worn underneath around the waist. Do your research, if you're interested in wearing a gown. Keep in mind that they're not really appropriate to the frontier, although a woman might have one stored safely away for special occasions. I have gathered bits of info on different types of gowns and jackets, gleaned from the FandIWomen list on YahooGroups, plus pictures and pattern recommendations. Please click here for the GOWN/JACKET INFO.

Cloak. Women wore cloaks or mantles with hoods, not coats with sleeves. This would be made of wool, usually dark blue, brown, or grey. Cloaks are cut in rectangles, with triangles sewn in for fullness, and gathered to a hood. They should be a bit shorter than your petticoat. You'll need 3.5 yards of 60" wool, or 4 yards of 45" wool.

Eyewear. If you wear glasses, you may want to consider contacts. If you have to have glasses, you should search for period frames and have your prescription set into them. The frames can run upwards of $100, but there is really no substitute. Period eyewear is required by the end of the first year.

18cNewEnglandLife - Women's Clothing and Accoutrements - Excellent page! Note that the emphasis is on Rev War/1770s, and American/British, but there is still good info for French portrayals.

When sewing, do use lots of linen and wool. Make sure it's 100% content - polyester looks and feels wrong. (If you're not sure of the content, do a burn test - real linen burns and leaves a soft ash; anything crunchy in the residue is indicative of synthetic fibers. When wool fabric is burned, it smells like burning feathers.) Our modern 100% cotton doesn't look like the 18th century cotton and shouldn't be used overly much, especially on anything like an apron or petticoat which may be near a fire (cotton is flammable!). Stick with solid colors and first, and be ever so careful buying printed fabric. It's so easy to goof without a very good understanding of what is period correct.

For information on making garments for men, women, and children, refer to Suzanne and Andre Gousse's Costume in New France From 1740 to 1760, and to Beth Gilgun's Tidings From the 18th Century. The Gousses' book is excellent as it describes each and every piece of clothing, giving historical documentation and period illustrations, and describes how the clothing is worn.

Gilgun's book is also useful, as she gives good illustrations and patterns for creating the clothing, although her books is a bit more geared to a later time period and more English than French. The main problem with her book is that she doesn't differentiate between French and English styles, and doesn't note specific time periods for the clothing. Used in conjunction with the Gousses' book for historical accuracy, Gilgun's book is an good resource.

There is another book, Historic Colonial French Dress, by Johnson, Forbes, and Delaney, which is not nearly so useful. The illustrations are modern, and the documentation is found at the back instead of with the clothing descriptions, and some of the clothing descriptions are suspect, but there are decent guidelines for creating the garments in the back. Use this book with care, and only in conjunction with the previous two books. All three books are available at the Visitor's Center at Fort Toulouse.

Books: (see above paragraph for reviews of books!)

Costume in New France From 1740 to 1760 by Suzanne and Andre Gousse - highly recommended!

Tidings From the 18th Century by Beth Gilgun

The Equipment of New France Militia, 1740-1760 by Steve Delisle

The French Soldier in Colonial America, by Ren‚ Chartrand

Colonial American Troops 1610 - 1774 by Rene Chartrand

Patterns:

Suzanne Gousse is a patterns merchant, highly recommended for French-style garments for men and women. Her patterns are well researched and include a wealth of information on cloth, prints, historical accuracy, etc. http://www3.sympatico.ca/gousse-m atte/fdl/fdl.htm

J.P. Ryan makes excellent patterns. Good patterns for the French Marine justacorp (1750s coat) and waistcoat can be found here. Try their gown, caraco, or bedgown pattern. For stays/jumps/foundation garments, J.P. Ryan is good if you're long-waisted, slender and broad- shouldered. Almost all the patterns tend to be a later period, but "A Fine Collection of Ladies' Jackets for Undress Wear" has patterns for 1750s jackets. http://www.jpryan.com/

Rocking Horse Farm Patterns carries over 90 vintage and historical clothing patterns from medieval to 1950. Some patterns are taken directly from vintage patterns, but most are researched from original outfits and/or period paintings. They have a good pattern for French fly breeches for French Marines. They don't have a catalog on-line, but you can request one: rhfPatterns@aol.com, or a send a postcard to: Rocking Horse Farm, PO Box 608-I, North Jackson, OH 44451. http://www.rockinghorse-farm.com/.

Mill Farm has a pattern for a gown, caraco, bedgown, and juste-au-corps jacket. For stays/jumps/foundation garments, Mill Farm is good if you're short-waisted, narrow-shouldered, and/or buxom. Very easy to understand patterns, but finished products are not really well-sized. Use if you are experienced at sewing, or do a mock-up first. If you find them for sale by sutlers, make sure the instructions look like they were printed from a computer. If they look like they were typed by hand on a typewriter, they are the old versions. http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/. You have to buy their catalog to see the pattern selection. It's well worth it to buy their swatch book of fabrics, as well.

Kanniks Korner has a great pattern for a very authentic bed jacket. Their shift is English, rather than French, but can be modified by making the sleeves 16-20" in width, and not using a drawstring on the neck. http://www.kannikskorner.com/

If you really want to sew your own stays, there is an online custom corset pattern generator at http://www.dnaco.net/~alee d/corsets/corsetpage/pattern.html (moving soon to http://costume.dm.net/custompat/). This will give you a customized Elizabethan corset shape.

 Clothing:

Baldwin Clothing specializes in military uniforms from F-and-I and Rev War times. http://baldwinclothing.com/

Fugawee Shoes http://www.fugawee.com/

Info:

18th Century Clothing Resources: http://members.aol.com/fiwar/clothing.html

Compagnies Franches de la Marine de Contrecouer in New France - all sorts of good info on F-and-I. http://contre.virtualave.net/welcome.html

The Costumer's Manifesto - you'll have to dig through all their links, but they've got lots of good info. Rather slow to load. Check out "Military" and "18th Century Costume Resources." http://www.costumes.org

La CouturiŠre Parisienne: Wonderful 18th century paintings, plus notes on using paintings for costume construction, info on 18th century fabrics, a clothing glossary, and other useful info. http://www.marquise.de/1700/index.shtml . Go to their main page for things like shoes and children's clothing: http://www.marquise.de/themes/index.shtm l.

History of 18th Century Shoes

1700s Costume Images Site

Pictures and Paintings:

Look at these ladies' outfits!

Check out this page for some photos of a woman dressing in various parts of her costume (English, 1770s).

Lovely photo of a middle-lower-class woman

Check out these paintings by Chardin, an 18th century French painter. The women's outfits show the bib aprons, lappet caps, and jackets or waistcoats, plus other accouterments of 18th century life. Especially look at The Laundress, The Return From Market, Saying Grace, and Girl Peeling Vegetables. Most of Chardin's servants are wearing hip length bed gowns like the "The Return From Market," "The Scullery Maid," and "The Laundress." The women of a more middle class position like "The Governess," the various ladies and mother are wearing long saques, although the mother in "Saying Grace" is wearing a short sacque.

http://sunsite.dk/cgfa/chardin/

http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/html/c/c hardin/index.html

http://www.artchive.com/artch ive/ftptoc/chardin_ext.html

http://www.nga.gov/collec tion/gallery/gg53/gg53-main1.html

Paintings by Jean-Etienne Liotard:

Note especially The Chocolate Girl!

Here's a better shot of The Chocolate Girl

Another interesting one by Liotard - shows the painter's neice

http://sunsite.dk/cgfa/l/l-9.htm#liotard

Bouchardon's Street Cries of Paris - Note the garb: "A Sweeper" is wearing a short sacque. "Baked Apples," "Oysters in the Shell," and the "A Higgler" are wearing long bed gowns, knee length or longer and these are all working class women. "Green Walnuts" is also wearing mules.

Check out these pages for period images:

Hats and hairdos

1700-1725 clothing, with commentary

1727-1740 clothing, with commentary

1740-1762 clothing, with commentary

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